Why Is My Dryer Not Heating?
A dryer that runs without heat usually has a failed heating element ($30 to $100 in parts on an electric model), a failed igniter or gas valve coil on a gas model, or a blown thermal fuse ($5 to $20). A blown fuse always points to a restricted vent, so clean the full duct before you run the dryer again. Each of these is identifiable with a multimeter continuity test on an unplugged machine.
Electric Dryers: Heating Element Failure
The heating element in an electric dryer: a coiled nichrome resistance wire stretched across a metal frame that glows hot when current passes through it. When the element fails (the coil develops a break), the dryer runs but produces no heat. Testing: disconnect power to the dryer, access the heating element (location varies by brand — usually behind the rear panel or in the front lower section), and test continuity with a multimeter across the two element terminals. No continuity (infinite resistance): the element has failed. A replacement element: $30 to $100 in parts, 30 to 60 minutes of labor. This is one of the most cost-effective common appliance repairs. (For more on this, see Gas vs. Electric Dryer: Which Is Better?.)
Thermal Fuse: Both Electric and Gas Dryers
The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that blows (opens the circuit) when the dryer reaches an unsafe temperature, cutting power to the heating circuit. Unlike a circuit breaker, it does not reset — once it blows, it must be replaced. A blown thermal fuse: $5 to $20 in parts. However: the thermal fuse blew because the dryer overheated, and the dryer overheated because of a restricted vent. Replacing the fuse without clearing the vent restriction: the new fuse will blow again, often within days to weeks. Always clean and inspect the dryer vent fully when replacing a thermal fuse. The U.S. Fire Administration found failure to clean was the leading ignition factor in home clothes dryer fires, at 31 percent.
Gas Dryers: Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
Gas dryers use an igniter (a glow bar that heats to ignite the gas) and gas valve solenoid coils (electronic valves that open to allow gas flow) to produce heat. Igniter failure: the igniter glows (you can see the orange glow in the drum) but the gas does not ignite — the igniter is too weak to reach the gas’s ignition temperature. Gas valve coil failure: the igniter glows, reaches temperature, but the valve coils do not open. Both are $250 to $500 in parts and labor and restore full heating function when replaced correctly.
Working With a Contractor on This Project
Getting the right outcome on any home services project starts before the work begins. A few consistent practices make the difference between a smooth project and a frustrating one.
Get at least two or three quotes. A single quote gives you no basis for comparison. Two or three quotes reveal the market rate for the work, expose scope differences between bidders, and let you assess contractor communication quality before any commitment is made. The lowest bid is not automatically the best value if the scope is thin or the materials are underspecified.
Ask for licenses and insurance before work starts. Verify current general liability insurance and, for any work involving workers on your property, workers compensation coverage. Licensing requirements vary by state and trade; confirm the specific requirements in your jurisdiction. A licensed contractor who carries appropriate insurance protects both parties if something goes wrong during the project.
Get the scope in writing. A written proposal that specifies materials, labor scope, timeline, what is included (permits, cleanup, disposal), and warranty terms is the foundation of a professional engagement. Verbal agreements on any of these points invite misunderstanding. For any project over $500, written scope is non-negotiable.
Clarify the payment schedule upfront. A reasonable payment schedule ties major payments to project milestones: a deposit at signing, a payment at material delivery or project start, and a final payment at completion after a walkthrough confirms satisfaction. A contractor who requires full payment upfront before work begins is a red flag in any trade.
Making a Confident Decision
The information in this article is designed to help you ask better questions of the professionals you work with, evaluate their answers with more confidence, and understand the decisions involved in this type of home services project. It is not a substitute for professional assessment of your specific home.
Every home is different. Roof slopes, local weather, tree exposure, soil conditions, and existing system condition all affect what the right solution is for your specific situation. The general principles here apply broadly, but a professional who assesses your home in person will give you guidance that accounts for the details that general articles cannot.
When you are ready to move forward, getting at least two or three quotes from licensed, insured, local contractors is the most important practical step. It lets you compare approaches, assess contractor quality, and confirm that the solution proposed matches your specific situation and budget.
Cost figures on this page were checked against published pricing on September 1, 2026. How we source cost data.
Frequently Asked Questions
Electric dryer: heating element failure (most common) or thermal fuse failure. Gas dryer: gas igniter failure, gas valve coil failure, or thermal fuse failure. Test the thermal fuse first (it is the least expensive and most commonly failed component after the heating element). Always clean the dryer vent when addressing any heating issue -- a restricted vent causes most thermal fuse failures.
Unplug the dryer. Locate the thermal fuse (typically on the exhaust duct inside the dryer, near where the duct connects to the heating element housing -- location varies by brand). Disconnect the two wires from the fuse terminals. Test continuity with a multimeter: a functioning fuse reads continuity (near 0 ohms); a blown fuse reads no continuity (infinite ohms). A blown fuse must be replaced and the vent must be cleaned before running the dryer again.
$150 to $300 including parts and labor. The element itself: $30 to $100 depending on the brand and model. Labor: 30 to 60 minutes for an experienced technician. A DIY replacement: accessible for mechanically inclined homeowners with the correct part and basic tool use. Confirm the part number using the dryer's model number before purchasing.
Intermittent heating in an electric dryer: often indicates a partial heating element failure (one of the coiled sections is intact but the element runs at reduced output), a loose wire connection at the element or thermostat terminals, or an intermittently failing cycling thermostat (the thermostat that cycles the element on and off to maintain drum temperature). A technician can test each component systematically to identify the intermittent failure.
The dryer vent exhausts moist, hot air from the drum to the outside. A restricted vent (from lint accumulation, a crushed flexible duct, or a blocked exterior cap) traps heat inside the dryer. The internal temperature rises until the thermal fuse activates, cutting power to the heating circuit to prevent a fire. The vent restriction is the cause; the thermal fuse failure is the symptom. Clearing the vent and replacing the fuse resolves both.